Guides · Materials
The fabric is pilling after six months: is it a defect?
The balls on the arm of a chair are plain to see, and the first question is whether the fabric was wrong. The standard answers more narrowly than expected.
In short. Pilling is measured under EN ISO 12945 and reported as a grade from 1 to 5, where 5 means no change. That grade is a change from the original state, not an absolute appearance, and it comes from three different machines whose grades are not comparable. The specification standard for upholstery fabrics has it assessed after 2,000 cycles — far short of the abrasion figures that end up in specifications. There is no legal threshold.
Pilling, fuzzing and matting are three different faults
The standard is EN ISO 12945, Textiles — Determination of fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting, and its title already says the first useful thing: there are three properties, they are assessed separately, and each has its own scale.
- Pilling: fibres that work loose from the yarn, stay attached to the surface and tangle into compact balls.
- Fuzzing: raised fibres that do not tangle; the surface turns hairy and loses definition, but no balls form.
- Matting: the pile is crushed and compacted where contact happens, and the difference shows up in the way the light falls.
The distinction is not academic: what you see on a hotel armchair after a season in service is very often not pilling but fuzzing on the arm and matting in the middle of the seat. A dispute opened over pilling, when the real fault is matting, argues the wrong number.
What a “grade 4” actually means
Visual assessment is the subject of Part 4 of the standard, published in 2020, which applies to most woven and knitted fabrics, napped ones included. Each property has its own table and its own 1-to-5 scale: for pilling, 5 is no change, 4 partially formed pilling, 3 moderate pilling with pills of varying size and density partially covering the surface, 2 distinct pilling covering a large part of the surface, 1 severe pilling covering the whole surface. Where an assessment falls between two grades, the intermediate value is reported — 3-4, for instance.
Here is the point almost nobody writes down: the grade measures the change from the original state, not the appearance itself. A bouclé starts out with a broken, lively surface; a flat weave starts out smooth. After the test the two can be given the same grade 4 and look completely different, because the grade says how much they changed. Two grades compared without knowing where each fabric started say far less than they appear to.
Three machines, three grades that do not compare
The test that precedes the assessment can be run in three ways, and they are three distinct parts of the same standard: Part 1 uses a rotating pilling box, in the 2020 edition that replaced the one from 2000; Part 2 a modified Martindale, also 2020; Part 3, from 2014, a drum that tumbles the specimens at random. A grade quoted without the part applied is not a datum: it is a number. It is the same trap as abrasion cycles measured at two different pressures, which we wrote about in the guide to Martindale: the complete figure is standard, part, property assessed and number of cycles.
The test that counts is run at 2,000 cycles, not fifty thousand
The specification standard for upholstery fabrics — EN 14465, Textiles — Upholstery fabrics — Specification and methods of test — puts pilling among its own requirements and has it assessed to EN ISO 12945-2, calling for the assessment after 2,000 cycles. Two thousand, alongside the fifty thousand abrasion cycles of specifications.
That is not an oversight: abrasion looks for the moment the specimen breaks down, while pilling forms long before, when the fabric is still sound and has merely changed its face. A high cycle count says nothing about how the arm of a chair will look in month six, and a specification asking only for abrasion leaves uncovered the thing the client sees first.
So after six months, is it a defect?
It is a defect if the fabric fails to meet what the supply required. And this is where these arguments end in negotiation and almost never in measurement: if the order documents carry no minimum grade, with its part of the standard and its cycle count, there is nothing to measure against. How to write a requirement that can actually be checked is in the guide to the specification clause.
As a rule it is not a defect when the pilling comes from foreign fibres: throws, blankets and clothing shed fibres that tangle on the surface, and they are recognisable because they come away and do not return. Nor is it one when the fabric is built to have a broken surface, as a bouclé or a chenille is.
The test to run needs no instruments: shave the surface and wait. Pilling that does not re-form was foreign material; pilling that returns in the same place says the fibres are still working loose. The word the standard uses in its own title, after all, is propensity: not a guarantee of durability.
Why this matters more in a hotel than at home
Because the remedy costs trading days. Replacing the cover of a certified upholstered item invalidates its reaction-to-fire certification, unless it is the same fabric in another colour or pattern: the test was run on the combination of cover and filling. The route is in the guide to reupholstering, alongside the one on class 1 IM. A fabric that pills in month six, in an operating property, is therefore not a cosmetic problem: it is reupholstery in service, with rooms out of use. It is decided earlier, when the specification clause is written, or it is not decided at all.
How we work
We make the upholstery in house, as we do the wood, the marble and the steel, and that changes the order of the questions we put to a fabric supplier. We do not ask for a grade: we ask for the test report, with the part of the standard, the property assessed and the cycles; and first of all we check that the combination with the filling that goes into that model is certified. In a hotel contract the value that weighs most is time: goods that comply, are certified and arrive on schedule mean an opening that does not slip.
The moment a fabric is really looked at is the mock-up room; materials are under Collections, the route of a contract in the Contract section, and the contacts reach whoever follows it.
Frequently asked questions
Is there a mandatory minimum grade for hotel use?
Not in law. EN 14465 puts pilling among the requirements for upholstery fabrics and has it assessed to EN ISO 12945-2 after 2,000 cycles, but the grades circulating in catalogues and blogs as thresholds for public use are commercial conventions. What binds a supply is the grade written into the specification, with its part of the standard.
Can the balls be removed?
Yes, with a fabric shaver worked over a taut surface, without pulling at the fibres. The question that matters is whether they come back. Pilling that does not re-form was foreign material; pilling that returns in the same place says the fibres are still working loose, and shaving does not solve it.
What should the test report say?
Four things: the part of the standard applied, which of the three properties was assessed, at how many cycles, and the grade obtained. A trade data sheet stating only “pilling 4” cannot be verified, and in a dispute it carries no weight.
If I change the fabric because it pills, do I keep the fire certificate?
If the fabric is a different one, no: the certification covers the upholstered item and holds for the combination that was tested, of which the cover is one element. The same fabric in another colour or pattern, yes.
Talk to us The contract division
This page cites EN ISO 12945 in its four parts — rotating box, modified Martindale, random tumble and visual assessment — and EN 14465:2003+A1:2006, for their subject matter, for the scale and for the cycles they prescribe: acceptance values sit in the paid texts and are not reproduced. No prices, no response times, no company case histories. The valid grade is the one in the test report; the binding requirement is the one in the specification.

